The Kashmir is called the heaven on earth. Irish poet Thomas Moore's 1817 romantic poem Lalla Rookh is credited with having made Kashmir (spelt Cashmere in the poem) "a household term in Anglophone (English speaking) societies", conveying the idea that it was a kind of paradise (an old idea going back to Hindu and Buddhist texts in Sanskrit). Kashmir has lush green valleys, mountains, rivers, glaciers and plains. 克什米爾被稱為人間天堂。因愛爾蘭詩人托馬斯·摩爾（Thomas Moore）在他1817年的浪漫主義詩歌《拉拉·魯克》（Lalla Rookh）中描寫成了天堂一樣的地方，克什米爾成了英語國家社會中一個家喻戶曉的名字。克什米爾有郁郁蔥蔥的山谷、山脈、河流、冰川和平原。After the Partition of India in 1947, the former princely state of the British Indian Empire became a disputed territory, now administered by three countries: India, Pakistan, and China. According to Burton Stein's History of India, "Kashmir was neither as large nor as old an independent state as Hyderabad; it had been created rather off-handedly by the British after the first defeat of the Sikhs in 1846, as a reward to a former official who had sided with the British. The Himalayan kingdom was connected to India through a district of the Punjab, but its population was 77 per cent Muslim and it shared a boundary with Pakistan. Hence, it was anticipated that the maharaja would accede to Pakistan when the British paramountcy ended on 14–15 August. When he hesitated to do this, Pakistan launched a guerrilla onslaught meant to frighten its ruler into submission. Instead the Maharaja appealed to Mountbatten for assistance, and the governor-general agreed on the condition that the ruler accede to India. Indian soldiers entered Kashmir and drove the Pakistani-sponsored irregulars from all but a small section of the state. The United Nations was then invited to mediate the quarrel. The UN mission insisted that the opinion of Kashmiris must be ascertained, while India insisted that no referendum could occur until all of the state had been cleared of irregulars." 1947年印度分治后，這里成了一片有爭議的領土，現在由三個國家管理：印度、巴基斯坦和中國。根據Burton Stein的印度史，“克什米爾既沒有海得拉巴那么大，也沒有海得拉巴那么古老；1846英國人創立了這個地方，用來獎勵當時幫助英國戰勝錫克教徒的一位官員（其實是漢奸）。喜馬拉雅王國通過旁遮普的一個地區與印度相連，但其人口中77%是穆斯林，與巴基斯坦接壤。因此，大眾預計這個王公會在8月14日至15日（也是印巴分治的日子，巴基斯坦和印度的國慶節）英國統治結束時加入巴基斯坦。巴基斯坦人有點猴急，在當他猶豫不決時，發動了游擊隊襲擊，本想著恐嚇一下，讓他屈服，沒曾想到，王公向蒙巴頓總督求助，總督同意了他加入印度。印度士兵進入克什米爾，將巴基斯坦支持的游擊隊趕出該邦的一小部分地區。聯合國介入，提議由克什米爾人來覺得加入哪一邊，也就是公投，而印度則堅持認為，要先把游擊隊全部剿滅，不然不可能舉行全民公決。”In the last days of 1948, a ceasefire was agreed under UN auspices. However, since the plebiscite demanded by the UN was never conducted, relations between India and Pakistan soured, and eventually led to two more wars over Kashmir in 1965 and 1999. 1948年的最后幾天，在聯合國主持下達成了停火協議。然而，由于聯合國要求的公投從未進行過，自從留下了禍根，戰爭的火苗從未熄滅。印度和巴基斯坦之間的關系惡化，最終導致1965年和1999年針對克什米爾的兩次戰爭。到如今，兩國還是不斷有摩擦，不斷有戰火。The Pakistani administered Kashmir is called Azad Kashmir, while the Indian administered Kashmir is called Occupied Kashmir by the people of Pakistan. Interestingly the Chinese administered Kashmir is not talked about by Pakistani people and government. 巴基斯坦管理的克什米爾被稱為阿扎德克什米爾，而印度管理的克什米爾被巴基斯坦人稱為被占領的克什米爾。有趣的是，巴基斯坦人和政府并未對中國管理的克什米爾有任何異議。I will write about the Kashmir issue in detail some other time, today I will take you on a journey the Kashmir valley in Pakistan. 我將在其他一些時候詳細地寫克什米爾問題，今天我想帶你去看看巴基斯坦的克什米爾山谷。After having breakfast in Islamabad, we left for Rawalakot in Kashmir. It takes 3 to 5 hours by road from Islamabad. We took a longer way via Muree because the other route from Kahuta has areas prone to land sliding. River Jehlam acts as a natural boundary between Punjab and Kashmir. We stopped at Kohala bridge, on Jehlam river to enjoy the cold water of Jehlam river and have a tea. The locals have placed charpai (beds) along the river under the shades. The river water was sweet and thirst quencher. The tea tasted good with half of our legs covered in cold water. 當天在伊斯蘭堡吃完早餐后，我們出發前往Rawalkot。從伊斯蘭堡到這開車大概要3-5小時。我們從Muree走，因為其他路可能會有塌方。Jehlam河是旁遮普和克什米爾的分界線。我們在Kohala橋下停留，坐在浸泡在河水中的床上，享受著從伊斯蘭堡逃離的炎熱，腳下是冰涼的河水，茶杯里的熱茶更好喝了。
Restaurants have sitting places besides the river and somewhere inside the smaller portion of river. Across the Jehlam River the beautiful valley of Kashmir starts, with fruit trees, corn fields, sunflower fields and pine tree covered mountains.
跨過Jehlam河后，美麗的克什米爾就開始了，一路上的水果樹、玉米地、葵花籽以及松鼠覆蓋了連綿起伏的山峰。Dense tree covered mountains, with river flowing in the valley. We stopped by a walnut tree full of fresh walnut beside the road to enjoy the walnuts. 茂密的樹木覆蓋著群山，山谷中流淌著河流，我們在路邊的一棵核桃樹旁停下來欣賞胡桃，在中國的時候吃過新鮮的核桃，難以忘記的美味。新鮮的核桃，老巴在中國的時候吃過新鮮核桃，驚為天人Our first destination was a place named Suddhan Gali. It’s a small village with seemingly more guest houses than the local houses. There is a stark contrast between the local’s residence and the rest houses. The rest house we stayed was a three story building with carpeted rooms and clean environment. The locals are poor but very hospitable. A lady working in her small field saw my mother and invited us to her home. She told us that her husband works at a petrol pump in Rawalpindi and she is living with her son. Her son goes to public school which is free. Few years back the earthquake leveled her home, and they have to construct all over.
我們的第一個目的地是一個名叫Suddhan Gali的地方。這是一個小村莊，招待所的數量似乎比當地人家的房子還多。當地居民的住宅與其他住宅形成了鮮明的對比。我們住的房子是一棟三層樓高的建筑，房間鋪著地毯，環境干凈。當地人很窮，但很好客。一位在她的小田里工作的女士看到了我母親，邀請我們去她家。她告訴我們，她的丈夫在拉瓦爾品第的一家加油站工作，她和兒子住在一起。她兒子上的公立學校是免費的。幾年前，地震把她的家夷為平地，他們不得不重新再建房子。
Left is a small housing for chicken, on right a small room for a buffalo. 我很喜歡這樣子的生活方式，采菊東籬下，悠然見南山。They hardly had any useful piece of land for growing. Big bungalows in cities like Lahore DHA may have more lawns than their farmland, yet they offered us a very tasty tea (no milk). The lady also offered to eat from her as long as we are staying there, we told her we have our own stove for cooking, on our refusal she said at least she can cook the chapati for us. 他們用來種莊稼的地方實在是太小了，拉合爾等城市的一些人家門前的草坪都要比他們種莊稼的地方大多了。但他們給我們提供了非常美味的茶（不含牛奶）。這位女士還表示只要我們呆在那里，她就可以從她那里吃東西，我們告訴她我們有自己的爐子做飯，對于我們的拒絕，她說至少她可以為我們做Roti。 From this place 7km away there is a highest peak around 10000 ft ~ 3000 meters. There is a road leading to the mountain, where you can camp and climb the mountain yourself or hire a horse to ride up the top.
從7公里外的這個地方有一座約3000米的山。可以爬到山上去露營，也可以雇一匹馬騎上山頂。Wild horses can be seen enjoying the sunshine 可以看見野馬在在曬日光浴。P.S，我懷疑老巴不知道這是當地人放牧的馬，不是野馬。A makeshift toilet for visitors The camps had Chinese written on them :P 當地人出租的露營帳篷，上面寫著漢字，雖然我看的懂，但咱不敢說，咱也不敢問。：PLocals collect the garbage voluntarily to keep the area clean. Tourist from all background come here, and many of them are uncultured when it comes to garbage. 當地人自愿收集垃圾，以保持該地區的清潔。來自不同背景的游客來到這里，當談到垃圾時，他們中的許多人都是沒有文化的。There were a lot variety of small flowers on the top.
Panoramic view near the top. The horses drop until this place. Rest have to climb ourself Some views from the top.靠近頂部的全景。馬一直停到這個地方。其余的人都得自己爬上去，從高處看一些風景 Two young girls with a guide climb all they way to the top on foot. Young climbers in making. 兩個年輕女孩在向導的帶領下徒步一路爬到山頂。年輕的攀巖者在攀登。An eco friendly mobile shop on the mountain Many people also travel on bikes. There are groups on facebook for people who travel across Pakistan on bikes, they can guide you and also post their adventure. They even post the must carry items list for bikers. Bikes can go even where the Jeeps can’t go, also its much cheaper. 許多人也騎摩托車旅行。facebook上有一些騎自行車穿越巴基斯坦的小組，會有人指導，他們還發布了他們的冒險經歷。甚至貼了摩托車車手必帶的物品清單。自行車可以去吉普車不能去的地方，也便宜得多。Even cheaper than the public transport. Fuel cost of only 3 Rs per Km for a single person. And if two persons sharing a bike it comes to 1.5 Rs per Km per person. 騎摩托車旅行甚至比公共交通更便宜。單人每公里僅需3盧比的燃油成本。如果兩個人共用一輛自行車，那么每人每公里的車資為1.5盧比。Banjosa Lake is an artificial lake and a tourist resort 18 kilometers (11 mi) from the city of Rawalakot in Poonch District of Azad Kashmir, Pakistan. It is located at an altitude of 1,981 meters (6,499 ft). The lake is surrounded by dense pine forest and mountains, which make it charming and romantic. 班卓薩湖是一個人工湖，是一個旅游勝地，距離巴基斯坦阿扎德克什米爾Ponch區的拉瓦拉科特市18公里。海拔1981米（6499英尺）。湖的四周是茂密的松林，群山擁抱著這個人工小湖，使它迷人而浪漫。The weather in the area remains cool in Summers and cold in Winter. In December and January snowfall also occurs here and the temperature falls to -5°C. During Summer, the temperature remains 16°C to 25°C. 這里夏天氣候涼爽，冬天天氣寒冷。在12月和1月，這里也會下雪，氣溫降至-5°C。夏季，氣溫保持在16°C至25°C之間。From the lake, we climbed up the mountain to a small market place (a few shops), the view was incredible with thick grass covering the rocky road and the surroundings and the thick blanket of pine trees makes it harder to find a bare patch of ground. 我們從湖邊爬上山，來到一個小市場（幾家商店），那里的景色令人難以置信，厚厚的草地覆蓋著巖石路面和周圍的環境，茂密的松林讓我們找不到一塊空地稍作停留。Morning dew glittering like diamonds Dense forest surrounding the guest house and lakeVisitors and families enjoying the few motor boats available Old rocky track now covered in grass gives a cinematic view.
